This car shipping checklist exists because most moving-day problems are small and avoidable: an E-ZPass left on the windshield that bills tolls across six states, a car that would not start in a Queens driveway in February and picked up an inoperable surcharge, a scratch that was there before pickup but never written down. None of it is complicated. It just has to be done in order.
Big Apple Car Shipping runs pickups out of thirteen New York offices, and our drivers see the same mistakes every week. Here is how to prepare your car for shipping, phase by phase, from two weeks out to the day after delivery. The quote tool beside the headline starts the booking, and our pricing guide explains what the number includes.
Phase 1: paperwork for the car shipping checklist
Domestic shipping needs less paper than people expect. You do not need the title; the carrier is moving the car, not buying it.
- Photo ID for whoever releases the car and whoever receives it.
- A copy of the registration and insurance card in the glove box. Some carriers and terminals ask for them.
- If someone else will hand over or accept the car, a signed note or power of attorney naming them, with their number given to dispatch in advance.
- Vehicle details on the order that match the car: runs or not, lift kit, oversized tires. A mismatch at the curb changes the price.
- The accepted payment methods for the driver's balance, confirmed with dispatch. Policies vary by carrier.
Phase 2: wash it, photograph it, write down what is already wrong
The bill of lading inspection at pickup is the only record that matters in a damage claim.
- Wash the car a day or two before pickup. Grime hides chips a driver cannot note.
- Photograph every panel, both bumpers, the roof, the wheels, the odometer, and the interior with your phone so each shot is timestamped.
- Take close-ups of existing damage: curb rash, door dings, windshield chips.
- At pickup, make sure every existing mark is drawn on the BOL diagram before you sign. Anything not on the BOL is presumed to have been there already.
Phase 3: mechanical prep so the car loads without a surcharge
A car that starts, steers, brakes, and does not leak loads in minutes. One that fails any of those is a different job at a different price.
- Run the fuel down to about a quarter tank. A full tank is weight, and on an upper deck it is a hazard many drivers refuse.
- Check for leaks after the car sits overnight. Carriers can refuse a dripping car for the top deck because it lands on the vehicle below.
- Set tire pressure to spec. Flat tires make the car inoperable.
- Test the battery, especially November through March. A car that will not start at the curb becomes an inoperable load, adds $100 to $200, and may mean the truck leaves without it.
- Turn off the alarm and note how to silence it.
- Hand the driver one working key and keep your spare.
Phase 4: strip the car of anything that moves, tolls, or is valuable
This is where New York drivers get burned.
- Take the E-ZPass off the windshield. A transponder on a car hauler reads at every gantry from the George Washington Bridge to Florida, and those tolls are yours. Pull parking permits too.
- Remove or secure anything that can catch wind or clip the deck above: antennas, roof racks and boxes, bike racks, loose spoilers, hitch accessories.
- Fold in the mirrors.
- Latch convertible tops and check the seals; a loose top on an open carrier fills with spray.
- Empty the car of anything valuable. Carrier cargo insurance covers the vehicle, not its contents, and a cabin full of boxes can get the load refused. A common tolerance is about 100 pounds in the trunk, but policies vary, so ask dispatch before you pack.
Phase 5: electric, classic, and inoperable cars
Three kinds of cars need instructions the driver will not guess.
- Electric vehicles: charge to 30 to 50 percent, not full. Put the car in transport or tow mode if it has one, and tape neutral and parking-brake release instructions to the dash so the driver can roll it if it arrives drained.
- Classic and collector cars: show the driver the battery cutoff and say whether to disconnect it. Flag anything that weeps fluid or sits too low for standard ramps. Most owners choose enclosed auto transport for these.
- Inoperable cars: the car must roll, steer, and brake so the winch can pull it on. A seized wheel or dead steering means a forklift and a different carrier. Tell dispatch exactly what does not work when you book.
Phase 6: pickup day and delivery day
Plan on 30 to 45 minutes at each end. The driver calls the night before and about an hour out.
- At pickup: walk around the car with the driver while he fills out the BOL diagram. Point out every existing mark, check the VIN and mileage, sign only when you agree with the report, and get a copy before the car leaves.
- At delivery: inspect before you sign, even in the dark or rain, using your flashlight and pickup photos. New damage goes on the BOL in the driver's presence, photographed with the note. A clean signature says the car arrived as it left.
- Pay the balance in the method confirmed at dispatch and get a receipt.
Phase 7: after delivery, and the New York car shipping checklist extras
Claims windows are short. Most carriers require written notice within days of delivery, and some require it on the BOL itself. Check your BOL, send photos to us and the carrier in writing the same day, and leave the car unrepaired until the claim is acknowledged.
- Alternate-side parking: check your block's schedule before you give dispatch a pickup date. A car that must move at 8:30 a.m. for the sweeper cannot wait for a truck due at 10.
- Garage release: arrange it with the attendant a day ahead and settle the balance. Most garages will not release a car to a stranger without notice.
- Meeting point: a 75-foot hauler cannot turn onto most Bronx or Brooklyn side streets. Agree on a wide, legal spot such as a retail lot near the highway. Our door-to-door car shipping page explains how close the truck can get; our Bronx office knows the spots drivers use.
Car shipping preparation timeline for a New York pickup
| When | Tasks | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Two weeks out | Book and confirm vehicle details, give a pickup window, replace a weak battery, arrange a power of attorney if needed | Flexible dates get cheaper trucks; a dead battery means a surcharge or no pickup |
| One week out | Check leaks and tire pressure, confirm payment method, check alternate-side schedule, talk to the garage attendant | Leaking cars can be refused for the top deck; garage releases take a day |
| Day before | Wash, photograph every panel and the odometer, run fuel to a quarter tank, remove E-ZPass, permits, racks, and valuables | Photos and the BOL are the only evidence in a claim; transponders bill every toll |
| Pickup day | Walk around with the driver, mark existing damage on the BOL, verify VIN and mileage, sign, keep a copy, hand over one key | What is not on the BOL did not happen as far as the carrier is concerned |
| Delivery day | Inspect before signing, compare to pickup photos, note damage on the BOL, pay the balance, get a receipt | Claims windows run days, and a clean signature closes most of them |
Questions about car shipping checklist: how to prepare your car for transport
Do I need the title to ship my car within the United States?
No. Domestic auto transport does not transfer ownership, so the carrier never needs the title. Bring a photo ID, keep a copy of the registration and insurance card in the car, and if someone else is releasing or receiving it, give them a signed note and tell dispatch in advance.
Can I leave things in the car when I ship it?
Lightly, and at your own risk. Carrier insurance covers the vehicle, not its contents, and a cabin full of boxes can get the load refused or surcharged. A common tolerance is about 100 pounds in the trunk below the window line, but policies vary by carrier, so confirm with dispatch before you pack.
What happens if my car will not start on pickup day?
It becomes an inoperable load. If the driver has a winch and the car still rolls, steers, and brakes, expect a $100 to $200 surcharge on the spot. If the truck has no winch, it leaves without the car. Test the battery a week ahead, especially in winter.
What should I do if I find damage at delivery?
Write it on the bill of lading before you sign, in front of the driver, and photograph both the damage and the note. Send those and your pickup photos to us and the carrier in writing the same day. Check the BOL for the claim deadline, usually a few days, and do not repair the car until the claim is acknowledged.
How much should I charge an electric car before shipping?
Aim for 30 to 50 percent, enough to load, unload, and reach a charger at delivery. Put the car in transport or tow mode if it has one, leave written instructions for neutral and parking-brake release on the dash, and tell dispatch it is an EV when you book.